How to Use a Windlass Anchor: Essential Techniques

Whether you've installed a new windlass or bought a new boat and are using one for the first time, here are some important tips on how to treat your windlass properly. When referring to “rode” below, we mean the chain and/or rope you have attached to your anchor. When referring to “scope,” we mean the amount of rode you intend to lay out between the anchor and your boat.

• After a long passage—especially a rough one—your rode may become a jumbled mess within the chain locker, making it much harder for the windlass to deploy the anchor chain. Before anchoring, make sure to look in the locker and reorganize your rode as needed for ease of deployment.
• If lowering the anchor in “free-fall” mode (by manually loosening the clutch mechanism), make sure you have good control of the speed at which the anchor and rode are deploying and can easily stop it at the right time without jumping the gypsy or capstan – which can take some practice! Using this method in deep waters is NOT recommended, as the chain's overall weight can quickly overcome your ability to stop its deployment when using the free-fall technique.
• When starting to anchor, as your intended scope is playing out (assuming you are not using the free-fall option), make sure you are not reversing the boat too quickly, putting undue pressure on the windlass.
• After you've released the amount of scope you intend to use, but before testing the set of your anchor, deploy a chain stopper or snubbing device to put the testing pressure on the boat, not the windlass. Secure the snubber to a strong deck cleat.
• Once you are certain the anchor is set and have finished the process of anchoring if you haven't already (during testing) – deploy a chain stopper or snubber. This transfers the load of lying at anchor to the structural part of the boat instead of the windlass. This is critical if you get caught in a bad anchorage with higher winds and waves, as the drive shaft of the windlass can be bent under the higher loads if not properly snubbed.
• When beginning the anchor recovery process, it is a good idea to use the engine to move the boat forward to start retrieving the rode. Do not use the windlass to move the boat forward, as it puts too much pressure on the unit—especially when fighting wind or waves.
• When ready to break the anchor free from the seabed, use the engine or wave action to help, not the windlass.
• When done up-anchoring, secure your anchor to the bow to avoid accidental deployment while underway or the anchor banging on the hull—especially if you are doing a longer passage or if you are experiencing high wind or rough wave action.
• If you buy a new manual or electric windlass or anchor chain, make sure you buy the proper chain wheel so that your windlass matches the chain. These tend to be very finicky; if they don't match, you will have constant chain jumping or jamming issues.
• During windlass installation or when replacing your rode, make sure you have enough “fall” space between the deck and where the rode will be stored, especially if you are installing an electric windlass with the motor inside the chain locker. If you are using rope, you need to have almost twice the fall distance, as the additional drop is needed to avoid the chance of the rope piling up and causing jams.
• If the anchor windlass is controlled from the helm at the push of a button or from a sailboat cockpit, make sure you have a clear view of the bow.
• If at all possible, boaters should cover the windlass when it's not in use and crank it periodically if it's not used for long periods to re-distribute the lubricating oil in the gears. This general rule applies whether using a vertical or horizontal windlass on a powerboat or a sailboat.
• Periodically check the windlass electric motor and on/off switch for corrosion and ensure a circuit breaker is installed in the windlass wiring (preferably close to the battery) to ensure the breaker will trip in the event of unexpected excessive current flow.
• Your anchor windlass is a mechanical device, and performing the recommended annual maintenance will save your windlass from an early death – especially with frequent usage. It's easy and quick, and you'll be glad you did if you get into a hairy situation!

What Type of Rode?

All-rope rodes, most frequently used on smaller boats, require windlasses with drums designed for rope. These are similar in appearance and operation to a sheet winch on a sailboat; the drum hauls in the line wound around the drum. Self-tailing is a feature designed to prevent your line from becoming a massive pile of "spaghetti" on your deck, making it particularly useful with all-rope rodes. A self-tailing feature also frees up your hands because you don't have to stand there tailing the line.

All-chain rodes, often favored by larger cruising boats, are handled by all-chain wheels. A self-tailing feature on a chain wheel would be superfluous as the weight of the anchor chain peeling off the wheel will cause the rode to stow itself and the chain, if properly sized for the chain wheel, will be pulled along by the cogs in that wheel. However, a well-working chain stripper is critical.

Combination rope/chain rodes are very popular because the length of the anchor chain (the more, the better) lends a lot of holding power to the anchor, and the rope keeps the overall weight of the ground tackle down. Windlasses that handle rope/chain rodes use either a rope drum mounted with a chain wheel , or single unit with both capabilities. A chain wheel handles the chain through the use of pockets or cogs, which the chain links sit into. Obviously, the chain and the pockets must match, or the chain will jam or slip out. Combination models also use both a rope drum and a chain wheel, or feature an internal groove in the chain wheel that also handles the rope. Unlike the separate configuration, which requires that you set the chain stopper after retrieving the rope and change to the chain wheel to haul in the chain, the combination model allows easier "hands-off" operation although there's still plenty of opportunity for fouling. Most combination models require that the chain be joined to the rope by a splice, as the unit cannot accommodate a shackle. A proper rope-to-chain splice is reported to retain 95% of the strength of the line while distributing the load evenly along its length. However, it's critical to closely watch the rope to chain splice for wear and abrasion which often occurs. Another advantage to the splice is its ability to accommodate the nylon rode's stretch; a lot of line tension could cause the thimble to pop out in traditional thimble/shackle arrangements.

Can you use a winch to pull an anchor?

Yes, if your mechanical windlass fails, you can use a regular winch, if one is available, like on a sailboat.

If you follow these recommendations, we are sure your windlass will live a long and productive life – especially when you need it the most. For more information on this topic, see our Navigator on Selecting a Windlass, or feel free to contact our product experts at (800) 426-6930.